North River Gorge

In the middle of a political campaign filled with lies, distortions, and flip flops it clears one's mind and soul to spend some quality time with the truth and beauty of nature. Pictures from a recent hike on North River Gorge Trail in the George Washington National Forest, Augusta County, Virginia.

North River seen from the swinging bridge.

Fall colors light up the trail.

A serene pool in North River.

Floating

Yesterday (today too) was one of those lazy, hazy summer days just right for being on a river. We didn't have a full day, but my son and I found time for a lazy 4 hour kayak trip from Bridgewater to east of Mt. Crawford on North River. Some of the streams that I've cited for bacteria and sediment - Mossy Creek and Long Glade Run - flow into North River near Bridgewater. North River is part of the South Fork of the Shenandoah River watershed. So, I was naturally interested in conditions along the river. My impressions are not in any way scientific observations.

The water was green and cool at the put-in and, because of rains a few weeks ago, was up a little more than typical for the first days of summer. We were in sit-on-top kayaks so our butts were basically in the water and we dipped our feet and arms in frequently. The flow rate was good and the riffles fun. Oops - an early set of riffles went through a stainer - low branches in the water - and my son lost his fishing pole. Oh well, it was a cheap one. Lesson learned - tie it on.

I was interested in fish and wildlife that we'd observe and the general quality of the water and the banks:

• Fish - we saw no fish of any significant size either darting underwater or breaking surface. Only a few fingerlings jumping.
• Turtles - we only saw two turtles sunning themselves.
• Birds - lots of smaller birds such as Kingfishers and your typical backyard and farmland birds in the Shenandoah Valley. At the beginning of the trip we observed several small flocks of ducks. Just before reaching the bridge at Mt. Crawford we played tag with a Heron until it backtracked and returned upstream. Not many birds were spotted as we passed under Rt. 11 and I-81 - guess the traffic noise keeps them away. As we put some distance between us and the roads, we spotted a Bald Eagle who circled back over us and wasn't seen again. Near the take-out we trailed behind a dozen Canadian Geese.
• Water quality - the water was clear with a slightly greenish tint. Little suspended sediment observed. In some areas there was considerable plant growth. This is a sign of nutrients in the water along with the warmth of summer and sun overhead. But, I have no comparison with the same time in previous years.

We had the river mostly to ourselves. There were some folks heading out on tubes when we left a vehicle at the take-out, but we never saw them again. About halfway into the float, some teenage Mennonite girls were using a rope swing and dropping into a deep hole of cool water. No bathing suits for them - they were all in their long dresses. Quite a contrast from the young babe in a tiny thong I saw at Daytona Beach a couple weeks ago - America, with all its diversity, is a great country!

As if to confirm

As if to confirm my prior post about water quality, The Roanoke Times reports that the Virginia Department of Health has posted a swimming advisory at the Ponderosa Campground on the Blackwater River section of Smith Mountain Lake due to high bacteria levels. No, the streams I mentioned in that post don't flow into Smith Mountain Lake - the problems of water quality are found all over the Commonwealth.

The other day a fellow told me he'd never seen anyone swimming in Long Glade Run, a tributary of North River that regularly experiences very high bacteria levels. In doing so, he dismissed the need for riparian buffers and other programs to reduce runoff and bacteria. I pointed out that water from Long Glade eventually ends up in North River and the South Fork of the Shenandoah River. The South Fork is a popular fishing (a troubled industry) and canoeing river.

Tomorrow my son and I will kayak a few miles of North River, passing Long Glade along the way. WE ALL LIVE DOWNSTREAM.

April Showers Bring....

The recent rains have me thinking about.... gardening. Well yes, that is true. You know what they say about April showers. Actually, with the warmer weather and the recent rain, some of us are anticipating more opportunities for canoeing and kayaking on the Valley's many rivers. While I used to get into early spring floats, with time and aging I actually prefer warmer days (and water) for activities on the rivers. It is true we didn't get those big snows that melt slowly and replenish the rivers well into the summer months. But, spring rains are helping. Hopefully, April will be wet and the river levels will remain good well into June and July. To keep track of water levels in your favorite stream or river, check out the USGS Real-Time Data for Virginia Stream Flows.

Today's Roanoke Times has a good article on floating the Roanoke River - which is one of the region's rivers I've never dipped a paddle into. It also has a cautionary reminder about the dangers for kayakers and canoeists - a kayaker drowned in the Maury River near Goshen Pass last Sunday. Always paddle within your skill level and do not go alone. Remember a dunking on a 90° summer afternoon isn't nearly as dangerous one on a blustery 45° morning. Wear a life vest. I've always made it a rule to not go on the river when the water level is rising, rather I wait for the crest and enjoy the river while the levels are still high enough to be exciting, but they are dropping. I recall a drowning where a kayaker became entangled in a strainer (limbs/brush) and couldn't free himself or get help quickly enough in the fast rising North River. In short, there are times you should be a little chicken when dealing with whitewater!

Good resources for anybody canoeing or kayaking Virginia rivers are Roger Corbett's Virginia Whitewater and riverfacts.com. Corbett does a great job describing the all the major canoeing/kayaking rivers, including info and maps detailing put-ins/take-outs, hazards, low-water paddling, scenery, and the area history. The Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries maintains ramps and other river access points and has good maps and other info on boating and fishing.

Some of my favorite floats and paddles over the years:

• The last few years we've enjoyed the South Fork of the Shenandoah River near Bentonville. Mostly Class I and II, with an occasional II+. Nice scenery. Since there are several rental outfits along this stretch, and it is close to NOVA, the river can be busy on weekends and holidays. Midweek is usually quiet. Nice tent-only camping at Shenandoah River State Park.
• Don't forget the rest of the South Fork of the Shenandoah. Nearly every stretch of the river from Port Republic to Front Royal has some good canoeing. But, do a little research before jumping in the river. Some areas are pretty slow, others have hazards that you may not want to deal with.
• The Maury River from Buena Vista to the James River is fun, fairly secluded, has good fishing, and can be a day trip or overnighter.
• The James River above and through Balcony Falls is great. You can break it into segments for day trips or string them together for a one or two night camping trip. Above the falls it is mostly Class I and II but the falls, even with normal water levels on a summer day, is Class III. Be prepared to get wet and/or lose unsecured gear. I've never done the falls in cold weather, but if you are running it in March and April a wet suit makes sense. Below Balcony and a couple other smaller falls is a long stretch of flat water to the take-out. This is a year-round river and can be fun even with low water levels. This popular area can be very busy on weekends.
• The upper James from Iron Gate to Buchanan is fun, secluded, and good for an overnight trip. I spent a very cold and blustery March weekend on it a few years back.
• The New River is fun and challenging. Stretches are great for a day trip and there are good areas for one or two night canoe/camping/fishing trips. Another year-round river.
• The North Fork of the Shenandoah through the bends section near Woodstock is mostly secluded, has good fishing, and is fun. I can still taste the "surf & turf" we enjoyed along the bank while camping - grilled rib eyes and pumpkinseed. Other parts of the North Fork have good kayaking and canoeing, too.
• We've had fun day trips on the Middle River and North River. The upper part of North River, through the gorge, is usually only canoeable a few days in the spring and your skill level and equipment better be top notch.

So, on this rainy April day, don't bemoan the gloomy weather. It is good for our gardens and our rivers.